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Sleeve Engineering - The Wordsmith's Forge
The Writing & Other Projects of Elizabeth Barrette
Sleeve Engineering
Here's a fascinating post about engineering issues in pattern design and the manufacture of shirts or coats. 

I will say that I like a little ease at the top of my sleeve caps.  Perfectly matched sleeves usually don't fit right.  But maybe that's because they weren't cut right -- I can't recall seeing a shirt with forward-shifted seams.

I have drafted my own patterns, and modified ones I have, to get results that otherwise weren't available.  Couldn't find one for a swordsman's shirt, for instance, so I just made the long cuffs and stuck them on a basic pirate shirt.  I learned that forearms are not as simple as they look -- the pattern has a lot of subtle curves.  But I did get it to work.

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3 comments or Leave a comment
From: rhodielady_47 Date: September 14th, 2018 05:01 am (UTC) (Link)
Evil Sleevils--that's what a lot of people call them.
I loved the sleeves from the 1980's. Sleeves were loose or at least cut full in the upper arm so that you could move in them.

It's taken me a lot of reading to finally arrive at the root of the sleeve problem: The armholes are usually cut too big and the sleeve cap area of the sleeve has too much height between the top point of the sleeve cap and the armpit area of the sleeve cap.
Such a sleeve looks really nice when your shirt is on a hanger, but when you try to lift your arms while wearing that sleeve, your shirt will all but rip itself out of the pants you tucked it into!
Coco Chanel had the right idea when it came to sleeves.
ysabetwordsmith From: ysabetwordsmith Date: September 14th, 2018 05:09 am (UTC) (Link)

Yes ...

For the last year or so it's been horrible trying to find tops that fit, like turtlenecks or sweaters. The sleeves are so tight they hug my arms. I don't like that even in knit fabric. >_
From: rhodielady_47 Date: September 14th, 2018 06:16 am (UTC) (Link)

Re: Yes ...

One website that really helped me is this one that discusses flamenco dresses:
Flamenco dresses generally have tight sleeves that you can gracefully lift your arms above your head while wearing.

Repositioning the armhole in the bodice is something I haven't seen discussed anywhere else and it makes a real difference in the bodice fit.
The second step is reshaping the sleeve.
Here's another good website:

This sleeve pattern adjustment is the easiest thing to do but it makes a huge difference in the sleeve fit.

This Pinterest page has a lot of websites that discuss sleeve reshaping.

Hope all of this helps.

3 comments or Leave a comment